Early Sunday morning saw me picking up two ecologists - one South African botany type, one American savannah dynamics type - and taking them for a jolly trip through Serengeti to Grumeti on the western edge. Due to last minute failings on Friday afternoon we still hadn't got a definite plan formulated for the trip, but with a couple of mattresses in the back anda box of food we thought we'd be able to make something up and stop for the night at the research centre in Serengeti en route, to arrive here Monday morning at coffee time. And so began an original trip with one passenger familiar and the other completely new to Tanzania - the first rains had arrived overnight in Arusha, but we soon lost them and entered dry, dry, dry lands to the south. A brief stop to spot the wildlife from the viewpoint over Manyara was a good start, then Ngorongoro was a good view - highlights for one botanist were the Kikuyu Grass growing by the viewpoint. Followed by a long discussion of tree - grass interactions at high altitudes in East Africa until we hit the plains at Olduvai for lunch. Carrying on into Serengeti proper we stopped for a mid-afternoon caracal on the plains - very nice! But for me the new experience was having to keep stopping to find grass - I never throught I'd drive through Serengeti looking for grass...
Found some though!
Next highlight was acheetah, and then sorting accommodation in Seronera, which thanks toa fortuitious meeting of one of my guests and some one doing researh in Seronera who recognised him was soon solved and we sat down to toast the sunset and forage in the local hoteli.
Monday morning saw us up with the zebras and off, passing the river and hippos en route reminding us why African's don't swim...
(Shame you can't sell it too!) And then on to our modest lodgings: here's my room...
And straight into discussions. TIme has now passed and more has happened, but it's late and I'lll be up early again tomorrow, so enough for now!
Wednesday, 10 November 2010
Saturday, 6 November 2010
Fireworks, Snakes and Sleepovers
A busy couple of days, particularly for Kitty. I'm off tomorrow and not sure when the next post will make it online, so thought I share a few pics now. From Kitty's school trip to the snake park, then the big fireworks night extravoganza at her old school last night (when we sadly left the camera at home, so you'll have to imagine tired but happy children!) and friends staying over last night to this afternoon, having had much fun.
PS Think the top feather is a ring-necked dove tail...
Highlights of the sleep over were making use of neighbour's pool and trampoline this am, whilst the two tortoises were getting friendly and provided further reptile education as we were getting ready to leave.
And, yes, we're still waiting for rain so chaning a tyre on friend's car is still a dusty affair. Do we look like we know what we're doing?!
PS Think the top feather is a ring-necked dove tail...
Highlights of the sleep over were making use of neighbour's pool and trampoline this am, whilst the two tortoises were getting friendly and provided further reptile education as we were getting ready to leave.
And, yes, we're still waiting for rain so chaning a tyre on friend's car is still a dusty affair. Do we look like we know what we're doing?!
Wednesday, 3 November 2010
Dreams...
I'm busy putting together a talk for a workshop I'm going to next week over in Grumeti. The workshop is all about what happens to protected areas in the savannah when they get isolated from each other: 50 years ago when most of the National Parks in Africa were being formed (usually as hunting reserves) the land surrounding the proteted areas were pretty much indistinguishable from the protected area themselves and the boundaries just a line on the map with wildlife free to come and go. Now, with populations growing at up to 3% (that's Tanzania), this has changed - in South Africa most protected areas are now completely isolated (even fenced) from the surrounding area, and even in Tanzania although fences have yet to arrive the edge of a National Park is all too often immediately obvious - you can even see some of them on Google earth - with agriculture or overgrazing right up to the boundary. Now, as these National Parks were originally chosen mostly on the understanding that hunters had of where wildlife was during the hunting (dry) seaon, it turns out that for much of the year the wildlife isn't even in the protected area at all. So cutting off access to the other areas is a pretty bad idea.
The workshop I'm attending will have some scientists from South Africa (where basically it's too late), plus some working in Tanzania to see what we can learn about the consequences of this isolation, and to think about what we can do about it before it's too late here: there still are connections in East Africa, as can be seen nicely in Amboseli across the boarder in Kenya just now: this National Park suffered an absolutely catastrophic crash in wildlife population late last year following the failure of the rains for two years. But in the wet season this year the few remaining Wildebeest migrated out of the park as usual, and thanks to particularly heavy rains went further than normal, meeting and mixing with Wildebeest that had come out of Tsavo National Park and elsewhere. Now, when they returned to the Park for the dry season, they brough 1300 of these animals back with them to start the repopulation process: that's the way these connections should work, but amazing to actually see it happening.
Now my brief for the workshop has been to give some Tanzanian context and a wider ecological background to the processes happening here. But in thinking about my talk and looking for a way to end it I've been forced to dream. What do I really want? What is possible? If there was unlimited money, what would my conservation vision for Tanzania be, right now? And my mind has turned again to Tarangire and it's ecosystem: an amazing place as I've said before. But a shadow of what it was like 50 years ago - for all the wildebeest you see there today, in the 1960s there were five times as many. More so with hartebeest. And only around 5% of the Oryx population remains (no wonder we don't see them anymore!). (To say nothing of the extincion of Rhino and Roan Antelope.) Then, when the rains came, a massive migration took place, some heading right up to Lake Natron, others heading east to the Simanjiro plains in the Maasai Steppe (as most of the remaining animals do now). These routes are fast being cut off - but they're still just about there. So, why not aim to link Tarangire with Lake Natron again? And whilst you're at it, make the connection to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area - it's not much further anyway. I'm not thinking a strict National Park - but that's not necessary. But I am thinking adequate protectiong for the animals and agreements not to till this marginal land right the way up. And then, of course, you take a wider picture and think if that's possible, then surely it's also possible to do the same linking from Lake Victoria in the West right through to Saadani National Park on the coast north of Dar. It's still possible - population densities are still very low in most of these areas and most of them are pastoralists who could easily co-exist with this sort of plan. But it won't be for long. Just think though, wouldn't it be marvelous to have a protected area running all the way from the coast of the Indian Ocean to the shores of Lake Victoria? Hmmmm.... Now all I need to do is sell the vision! But, afterall, if you don't have a dream, then how you gonna have a dream come true?
The workshop I'm attending will have some scientists from South Africa (where basically it's too late), plus some working in Tanzania to see what we can learn about the consequences of this isolation, and to think about what we can do about it before it's too late here: there still are connections in East Africa, as can be seen nicely in Amboseli across the boarder in Kenya just now: this National Park suffered an absolutely catastrophic crash in wildlife population late last year following the failure of the rains for two years. But in the wet season this year the few remaining Wildebeest migrated out of the park as usual, and thanks to particularly heavy rains went further than normal, meeting and mixing with Wildebeest that had come out of Tsavo National Park and elsewhere. Now, when they returned to the Park for the dry season, they brough 1300 of these animals back with them to start the repopulation process: that's the way these connections should work, but amazing to actually see it happening.
Now my brief for the workshop has been to give some Tanzanian context and a wider ecological background to the processes happening here. But in thinking about my talk and looking for a way to end it I've been forced to dream. What do I really want? What is possible? If there was unlimited money, what would my conservation vision for Tanzania be, right now? And my mind has turned again to Tarangire and it's ecosystem: an amazing place as I've said before. But a shadow of what it was like 50 years ago - for all the wildebeest you see there today, in the 1960s there were five times as many. More so with hartebeest. And only around 5% of the Oryx population remains (no wonder we don't see them anymore!). (To say nothing of the extincion of Rhino and Roan Antelope.) Then, when the rains came, a massive migration took place, some heading right up to Lake Natron, others heading east to the Simanjiro plains in the Maasai Steppe (as most of the remaining animals do now). These routes are fast being cut off - but they're still just about there. So, why not aim to link Tarangire with Lake Natron again? And whilst you're at it, make the connection to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area - it's not much further anyway. I'm not thinking a strict National Park - but that's not necessary. But I am thinking adequate protectiong for the animals and agreements not to till this marginal land right the way up. And then, of course, you take a wider picture and think if that's possible, then surely it's also possible to do the same linking from Lake Victoria in the West right through to Saadani National Park on the coast north of Dar. It's still possible - population densities are still very low in most of these areas and most of them are pastoralists who could easily co-exist with this sort of plan. But it won't be for long. Just think though, wouldn't it be marvelous to have a protected area running all the way from the coast of the Indian Ocean to the shores of Lake Victoria? Hmmmm.... Now all I need to do is sell the vision! But, afterall, if you don't have a dream, then how you gonna have a dream come true?
Tuesday, 2 November 2010
Playdate
Still not heard a final result for elections overall, although everyone is fairly sure that the current ruling party, CCM, and their leader Kikwete will still be in power. Arusha though, and many other towns that have already declared, have been taken by the opposition, so local changes to come no doubt...
Far more immediate though was a playdate - a brother (nearly 4) and sister (6.5) from Kitty's school came back home with us today for the afternoon. Plus K, Mama J's youngest (9) and we had a nice group that promptly segregated along gender lines.
The three girls made beautiful princess crowns and wands
while the two boys played happily with tractors, trucks and dust
Managed to entice one of them inside to help the girls make gingerbread. Then, following dinner, it was definitely bath time...
Forget nurture - this is definitely nature.
Far more immediate though was a playdate - a brother (nearly 4) and sister (6.5) from Kitty's school came back home with us today for the afternoon. Plus K, Mama J's youngest (9) and we had a nice group that promptly segregated along gender lines.
The three girls made beautiful princess crowns and wands
while the two boys played happily with tractors, trucks and dust
Managed to entice one of them inside to help the girls make gingerbread. Then, following dinner, it was definitely bath time...
Forget nurture - this is definitely nature.
Monday, 1 November 2010
Elections
Yesterday was the Tanzanian elections
Yesterday we sang "He's got the whole world in his hands" with the additional verse "He's got the Tanzanian elections in his hands"
Today we awaited the outcome, and the outcome of the outcome. A trip into town was cancelled when we heard that traffic was at a standstill. Nothing violent, just a celebration, or maybe a peaceful protest? Rumours were that the opposition have won Arusha district but the outgoing officer was refusing to sign the result off...
Let's see what tomorrow brings!
Yesterday we sang "He's got the whole world in his hands" with the additional verse "He's got the Tanzanian elections in his hands"
Today we awaited the outcome, and the outcome of the outcome. A trip into town was cancelled when we heard that traffic was at a standstill. Nothing violent, just a celebration, or maybe a peaceful protest? Rumours were that the opposition have won Arusha district but the outgoing officer was refusing to sign the result off...
Let's see what tomorrow brings!
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